A bike trip to Massawa, Eritrea and the Red Sea
My first trip to Massawa was on a bike by John Coyne (Ethiopia 1962–1964) In January of 1963, my group of PCVs to the Empire, some 280 + of us, assembled for a conference in Asmara. On the Friday between workshops, four of us: Tim Bodman, Charlie Michener, Ernie Fox, and myself — all Ethie Ones — decided to rent bikes for the 70-mile trip from Asmara down the mountains, across the Danakil Desert, and to the shores of the Red Sea. None of us was stationed in Eritrea, so did we know the way to Massawa. We just knew it was downhill from Asmara, at an elevation of 7,628 ft., to the sea. Starting before sunrise we pedaled five miles to the edge of the mountains. At that level, we were above the billows of white and gray clouds that lay perfectly still, enclosed the valleys below and encased the rugged . . .
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Karl Drobnic, RPCV Ethiopia 1966-68
What made my trip to Massawa memorable was the elderly man sitting in front of me on the ancient, crowded…